A postcard that has survived a century in a shoebox is tougher than it appears, but it is still far more delicate than most collectors realise. The card stock was made from inexpensive wood pulp in many cases, which carries its own acids and turns brittle and yellow over time. The printed image sits on the surface, often in chromolithographic inks that fade the moment ultraviolet light reaches them. Add a stamp, a postmark, or a handwritten message in fountain pen ink, and you have several different materials all ageing at different speeds on a single piece of card.
None of this means you should hide your collection away in a drawer. Postcards were made to be looked at, and the pleasure of a well-displayed album or frame is a large part of why we collect. It simply means that display needs a little thought. Get it right and your postcards will still look much as they do today in another thirty years.
The single most useful purchase you will make is a supply of acid-free, archival-quality sleeves. Ordinary polypropylene wallets from a stationer will do no harm in the short term, but the cheap cardboard and paper mounts sold for scrapbooking are a different matter. They leach acid into the card and cause the familiar brown "foxing" spots that ruin value.
Ink from a postmark or message can transfer to a sleeve over decades, so check stored cards every year or two and replace any sleeve that has become cloudy or dirty.
Fading is cumulative and irreversible. A postcard does not need to sit in blazing sunshine for months to suffer; an hour of direct sun each morning for a few years is enough to bleach a blue sky or a red pillar box into a pale ghost. Ultraviolet light is the main culprit, but visible light and heat both contribute.
If you must use a bright spot, position it so the beam falls across the surface at an angle rather than directly onto it. This also reduces the glare that makes an image hard to see.
Even in perfect conditions, light exposure takes its toll. The practical answer is to treat your display as a changing exhibition rather than a permanent installation. Choose a handful of favourites, enjoy them for a season, then swap them for others from the collection.
Three to six months is a reasonable rotation for anything under glass in a lit room. Keep a simple note of what went up and when, so nothing spends years on the wall by accident. Cards that are particularly valuable, or that show hand-colouring, metallic inks, or delicate embossing, are best displayed only briefly and stored in the dark the rest of the time. Rotating also has a pleasant side effect: you notice details in your collection that you had long since stopped seeing.
The damage that happens in the hand is often worse than the damage that happens on the wall. Oils from fingers dull the surface and attract dirt, and a torn corner from an over-eager thumb is permanent.
If you are framing a postcard, insist on archival materials throughout. The card should sit in an acid-free mount with a window slightly smaller than the card so it is held by its edges, never glued or taped down. A deep frame with a spacer keeps the glass off the surface and prevents condensation from touching the ink. On the back, seal the frame with acid-free backing board rather than ordinary hardboard, which gives off harmful vapours.
Write a small note of what the card is, where it came from, and when you acquired it, and keep it with the frame rather than on the card itself. Future owners will thank you, and your display will stay as safe as it is lovely.
Leave A Comment